Favorite Wine Bar in the City: Foxface Natural

With game meats, barnacles, antelope, kangaroo and scallop skirts, Foxface Natural offers plenty for diners on a hunt for the unusual.

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Since opening on a high-traffic stretch of Avenue A this 2023 spring, Foxface Natural has maintained an air of mystery—discreet and self-contained, like a sealed envelope. At times, it almost seems to be hiding. Slatted windows obscure the view from the street, its exterior painted a stern battleship gray. There is no sign. And yet, despite its low profile, the restaurant has drawn a small but fervent following. Many consider it their favorite new spot. I count myself among them.

Whether it will be yours depends on your tolerance for eccentricity. The soundtrack skews heavily toward recent Australian punk—Amyl and the Sniffers, The Chats, Alien Nosejob—played unapologetically loud. The menu, too, demands an adventurous spirit.

Must-try appetizer: Kangaroo Tartare.

Raw kangaroo is darker and sometimes gamier than beef. Chef David Santos elevates the natural depth of kangaroo meat by seasoning it with a spice blend inspired by Ethiopian kitfo—a traditional raw beef dish flavored with spiced clarified butter and chili. This seasoning enhances the tartare’s bold profile while bringing a subtle heat and complexity. To complement the meat’s purplish hue and earthy flavors, the tartare is paired with a smoky black purée of charred eggplant. The charred eggplant adds a creamy, umami-rich contrast, balancing the tartare’s richness with a touch of smokiness.

Another Must-Try: Roasted Whole Local Fluke

Wood Oven Roasting technique highlights the delicate, mild sweetness of fluke while enhancing its natural flavors. The fluke, swimming in olive oil with heaping handfuls of chopped garlic and parsley, is carefully roasted to achieve a crispy, golden-brown exterior while maintaining a tender, flaky interior. To elevate the dish, the fish is paired with broccolini and potatoes and that bring out its subtle brininess and buttery texture.

Overall, the menu exhibits a kind of cosmopolitan eclecticism. For example, the kangaroo tartare leans into Ethiopian flavors, but we can see Mexican influences appear throughout, and once the seasonal gelatos featured timut pepper, a close relative of Sichuan peppercorn. Yet despite the breadth of inspiration, the dishes maintain a sense of cohesion, united by a focus on exceptional ingredients presented with clarity. Even when multiple elements come together, the flavors and textures remain distinct, never muddled.

Foxface Natural is, without a doubt, a beast—wild, uncompromising, and thrillingly original. At Foxface Natural, expect the unexpected—rare meats, bold seasonings, and impeccable execution!